Sunday, June 26, 2011
Thanks to my fellow builders I finally started to have a better understanding of what kind of controls I should have.
Set up for spin and jib sheets was pretty easy and İ did exactly what Kevin did with side by side blocks . And because İ am building the long cockpit/short cabin version, İ can still seat 2 people side by side either in front of those blocks or behind. Plenty of space to move around and good access to all commands in case of solo sailing.
Most of the issues however came up with the dog house hardware placement.
Might sound easy for most of you but for a non experienced sailor such as me, it was all pretty hard to figure out.
As suggested, I bought some ropes and started playing around and simulating where all the cleats and blocks should be fixed at. The main issue I had is that the space around the cabin cutout and and mast base is very limited because I probably over cut the cabin opening. So I was left with little space to fit everything.
But I followed all the good hints and advices of what should be where , and ended up with this set up:
vang and cunningham running on the smaller external cleats . Spin tack line running on the middle large cleat. On the cabin side panel İ left a cleat eventually for a jib downhaul line
vang, cunningham running on the smaller external cleats, spin halyard running on the middle large cleat.On the cabin side panel İ have the Jib furling line as İ intend to use a furler.
Cleats for Main halyard and Jib halyard will be set on mast itself to save some deck space.
Spin tack line, Jib downhaul and Jib furling run all the way to bow and are deflected and held in place with little blocks. İt looks clean and should work fine with the fixed spin pole İ will add later on.
İt seems it will work out fine so a very special thanks goes to Josh, Chad and Kevin who helped me out each with a different step of that hardware location process.
All holes have now been overdrilled and filled with blue colored epoxi silica. That should help me not loosing sight of the holes after fairing.
The hardest part was really to place patches of duck tape underneath the traveler rail holes to fill them out with epoxi putty because İ had to dive underneath the cockpit sole all the way back to f169,5...
The place is so cramped inside because of all the stringers and reinforcement that İ would bump my nose everytime İ had to turn my head from side to side. But İ managed to keep my claustrophobic attacks under control !
That is one more benefit of this whole building experience ...
İ have already started fairing and sanding and should be painting top deck in a couple of weeks.
Monday, June 13, 2011
That is right. We flipped the boat once more today and I will finally go back to sanding and fairing some more but this time on the upper deck !
I swear I was missing that noisy and dusty action. Got bored of sniffing paint thinner.
So I just grabbed my orbital sander and went to work....My poor neighbors will need to bare with me for a couple more weeks.
I am sure they enjoyed the painting phase much more than I did though :)
And since the upper decks were sanded before I turned the dog house upside down, I actually do not have so much work to do.
If everything goes as planned, Ill be fairing before the weekend.
PS:......and just one more thing. I took my time to look at the boat tonight and I just could not believe I actually build it ! It is one amazing achievement for a first time builder and it is absolutely doable. If you are still thinking about it, just go for it and commit until the end. You wont regret it.
Friday, June 10, 2011
That is it ! Hull is finished for good and I am flipping the boat tomorrow to finish off the top.
So overall I really over did it and ended up using Interprotect , VC Tar and VC Offshore . But all that should help avoiding water infiltration and osmosis. Hopefully its money well spent...
Vc Offshore is a bit weird though...First of all the can I bought was supposed to be white....
To start off when I opened the can what they call white is actually more a light beige or creme color. Than you dump 800grs of copper powder into it and you end up with something a bit purple or grey, but certainly not white ! The thing is supposed to change color after some days of immersion so I am curious to see what it will actually look like later.
And it is not an easy paint to roll mainly because it dries so fast. I did my best to avoid leaving roll marks but could not. The paint job, even after 3 coats, is pretty uggly. Seriously. Marks all over that are hard to show on the pictures...I guess this antifouling should be sprayed on instead of rolled on to get a smoother result.
But, although I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist and the results are not really what I expected, I dont really care because this whole part will be soon underwater ! Cant wait for that to happen.
Keel and bulb assembly is finally finished.
Actually I had finished the keel already but a small change in my game plans sent me back to the sanding board....Initially, I had primed the keel with Primekote and painted it with white Brightside in order to build a custom sleeve around it for the keel box.
But because I will probably leave the boat in the water, I decided to apply an antifouling paint to the keel. That meant sanding off all finishing job I had done before, applying new primer and new antifouling paint. That is the reason why one can still see some darker sports on the pictures. Those are traces of the Primekote.
Anyways, the heavy bulb (80 kgs) was fixed to the oak keel with 4 stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers.
The previously drilled holes on the bulb and rudder were filled with a thick mixture of resin and silica. Then the bolts were inserted and properly tighten. And because they were slightly longer than needed, I trimmed off the ends with an all purposes hand saw.
Then everything was neatly filled with more epoxi silica putty.
Then it was time for some basic fairing , sanding, painting. Question was how to do this with a keel-bulb assembly weighting more than 100 kgs....Lay it down on my working table and do one side at a time or hang it ?
After consulting fellow builders on i550class.org I decided to hang it from the ceiling. Went to the hardware store, bought a heavy duty hook and a ready to use 8 to 1 purchase. I drilled the hole in my ceiling, screwed the hook and admire in ow my keel slowly raising from the ground.
That is one single screw holding over 100kgs ....Not too bad.
I let it hanging over night to be sure it would hold. As everything was still looking good the next day, i faired and sanded the beast.
1 coat of Interprotect followed by 1 coat of VCTar2 and 3 coats of VC Offshore later the job was finished and the keel looked like this
One thing I must say to all of the future builders who might be reading this is that you really should build a small cart to move your keel and bulb around.
I followed the advice of fellow builder Kevin and that was probably the greatest piece of advice I could ask for. Simply said, I could not have done it without that little cart.
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Getting close to finishing the paint job and I am happy with the results. The colors and scheme are not the usual thing but I am really happy with how it looks. Pretty cool for a sportboat. Now with that type of painting, that thing is better fly !
But take a look at that shine ! Interlux Perfection is indeed a glossy paint. You can even see the blue sky on the white part. Took me a little time (and money! ) to get to that point because I had to paint every color more than once and than lay a final glaze coat to protect the red from fading.
Now that the sides are done, I only need to apply VC TAr and the chosen VC Offshore antifouling on the bottom and I am done with the hull. I picked up a can of the white VC Offshore. I think it will look cool with a white bottom !
I will post a new entry as soon as I have the hull paint done with the antifouling.