That was fun...
I already had purchased the 3 meter long 2" by 2", knew I had to cut it from corner to corner, but had no idea how to do it. Hey guys remember I am a total beginner, not a pro !
So I started with my jig saw. Worked fine for the first foot and then my cutting line started going mad. Looked good from above but from below, I really had a twisted cut. I guess the blade was cutting kind of bent and would have broken if I had insisted. So I stopped.
Built a small wooden jig to try to cut straighter. Didn't work.
So I grabbed my circular saw set for maximum depth and went for it....After a few little adjustments, such as how to affix the long piece of wood on my small (but wonderful)working bench, it worked pretty good !
The results were pleasant and I ended up with two pretty equal halves . I now have to scarf them together and epoxy them to the hull. I will do this before putting the frames in, as it was recommended by many.
Just for fun, I also tried them on the hull and they follow the hull curve very nicely.That surprised me cause I expected them to be much stiffer and hard to bend. Of course towards the stern of the boat the sides are inclined outwards in such a way that the flat surface of the sheer clamp ends up pointing upwards. This will definitely need to be trimmed or planed later on but it will still leave me a decent size surface for glueing the deck. If my math is not too rusty, if you take a square of 2"x2", the diagonal will be 1,4 x2 = 2.8. Divide that by 2 and you get 1.4 inch after ripping your profile from corner to corner and trimming it down.
Another technique would be to do what Ben did (bensboogers.blogspot.com)
, that is inverting the sheer toward the end to always get the flatest and longest surface without much trimming.
Overall I am making steady progresses and the boat looks better everyday. This is definitely on of the coolest challenge I have ever faced !
First time builders who might be reading me, one word of advice : stop reading and go for it !
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