Aint going nowhere !

Did not quite finished my keel box but I sure as hell made sure the keel sleeve was as solid as possible. As a matter of fact, I even believe that the way the sleeve is overbuild and over glued to the hull, the box itself is almost unecessary.

What I did first was lay a nice filet of thick epox/ /microfiber in order to glue the sleeve as well as possible to the aft and fwd frames as well as to the hull floor. All gaps were closed.

I let it cured than applied a thick layer of epoxi /coloidal silica to make nice round edges, applied my usual strips of kevlar (cut out with metal cissors) and covered everything up with pretty large bands (50 cm wide +- 20 ") of fiberglass.

Overlapping all this fiber and using very large strips allowed me to make sure that all forces exerced on the keel sleeve will be properly distributed to the surrounding wooden panels.

The box itself will add even more rigidity and assure everything is watertight.

If I did not mess up with the keel alignment when epoxing the sleeve, I should be allright.

I also took my time and had great pleasure in shaping the 2 inches thick wooden blocks that will be placed at the bottom of the keel box. Whenever necessary, angles were rounded off to allow for the space taken by fillet I had laid to secure the sleeve. I also routed a channel at the bottom of those blocks to fit on top of the extra ply strip I used at the beginning of construction to butt my panels.

I went from this

to two of these

Wood sculpting rules ! I might really give it a try after my boat is finished....

It takes some guts........

....to cut a hole this big on the hull bottom ! But I guess the i550 really needs a keel ......

So I grabbed my Bosh Multimaster and went for it. The hole is obviously oversized to give me enough space to move the keel sleeve around until I find its exact location. It is tight in between frames because I already placed some reinforcements on the frames themselves, plus I followed the plans and left what was called for. I am glad I was carefull with the keel and the sleeve measurements... Had I not been care carefull, I think the keel would not have fit.

The keel needs to be straight afterall and I have no space whateosever in my garage to raise the boat and let the keel hang down. I will do what many did and work from above aligning the keel to the best of my ability. The idea is to stick the sleeve into the hole, then the keel into the sleeve, make sure everything is as straight as possible, epoxi the sleeve in place, remove the keel and finish off the keel box.

I started playing with that today and basically used 2 plumb bobs and a laser level that I got.

I placed one plumb on the side of the keel to check side to side balance. Than another one along the trailing edge to check for aft-fwd balance. That takes care of two important axes.

The last axis deals with where the leading edge (or trailing edge) are pointing and it is more difficult and delicate to get right. [imagine a vertical axis going down from top of keel to bottom of keel. The keels pivots around that axis and it is this alignment one must get right]

So to kind of help me out, I wrapped a string aroung the keel and pulled both ends toward the bow. It kind of make like a big arrow and what you need to look for is the symetry on both sides. It is most important to look if those strings are symetrical around the keel. If you see more space on one side than on the other than you know your keel is not pointing where it should, considering of course that your keel was properly build with two symetrical sides.

Here is a picture for you guys to understand what I am saying.

Ok, I now, not space engineering but it worked for me. And do not forget to use the best tool ever. Your eyes ! Actually as many eyes as possible for this matter. I called wife and daughter to the rescue and I only settled once we all agreed.

I did not epoxi anything today. Will wait for daylight tomorrow morning, check everything once more and go for it !

At last, chain plates gussets are in

There are two steps of the building that are taking me forever to do. One are the chain plates gussets. The other is the keel box. They are both very important in the construction process and demand attention.

I hope to finish both until Sunday because I will be off work until then due to the celebration of the end of the Ramazan (a fast held from sunrise to sunset during one full month) here in Turkey.


So today I worked on the cp gussets. I actually started out a couple of weeks ago but stopped because I still had to figure out hundreds of details on the rig I intend to put on my boat. I got that figured all out thanks to Josh Shazza and Andrew TTB. I really owe them big time, they were incredibly patient with me and answered all of my questions with great care. You guys really rock !

So now I know for a fact my rig will be alu just like the Aussi boys and my chain plates will be at 22,5 degrees. Once I got that figured out, it was just a matter of getting the gussets at the right angle.

I had previously use strings to calculate the angle but this time I used the method than Ben has described me and it also worked a treat.

I first build a simple jig with two long segments at 90 degrees. I leveled it and fixed it in between frames 53,5 and 89. The long leg of the jig follows the boat center line.




I dropped a plumb from the top of 89 and drilled a hole on the jig so the plumb would come all the way down to the hull bottom. That plumb is exactly where the center of the compression mast will be. That set, I knew my jig was right on stop.



On the jig, I had previously drawn different angle lines just to have some references of what other angles might look like (45 degrees, 30 degrees) but of course what I was interested in was the 22,5degrees one.




I just streched a thin nylon rope from the jig to the sheer clamp to give the exact position of the gussets.

You can see on the picture below the gusset temporarily placed right underneath the string running at 22,5 degrees. I did the same on the other side and then measured everything from the bow to make sure it was symetrical.


Then I held the gusset in place with a scrap piece of ply that was lying flat between F 53,5 and 89 on the side. It is an easy way out to hold that heavy 1 inch thick gusset where it should be.



Then i used West 5mns epoxy with silica on a few spots to fix the gussets in place. This works wonders to fix difficult parts before you actually fillet or tape them.

Once that was dried, I removed the scrap ply from above and layed a thick filet of silica / epoxi putty, applied a layer of fiberglass, another of carbon and a final of fiberglass to finish it off.

As you can see on this picture, my gussets are not fixed at the f89 /hull sides junction because I am using a smaller angle of 22,5 degrees. A lot of builders are going with the C-tech rig option and therefore setting their gussets at 26 degrees which falls right at that 89 / hull side intersection.

Whatever you do, just make sure you set your gussets at an angle that will be coherent with your spreaders and the rest of your rig and that is exactly what took me a while to figure out.

Awesome !

Even the life of an amateur builder is not made just of wood and epoxi......U2 360 tour was in Istanbul on Monday.What an awesome show...! The claw is the most amazing stuff I have ever seen. Really worth seeing.

Enough said.

That is one heavy mold !

I kept on working on my bulb plug but did not follow the plans....

I was supposed to sand the extra foam from the 20 sections to get my keel plug to the final shape.Instead, I decided to "fill" it with fairing putty.

I did that for 2 reasons:

First, to account for all the lead that will be removed to fit the keel inside of the plug. Second, because I would rather have a little bit too much weight on the bulb than not enough. I will still try to be within class limit but that is not one of my top priorities.

Anyways, I have no idea how much my bulb will end up weighting but I do not think I will be too far off.

The picture below is after the first layer of epoxy and fairing filler.

It looks terrible ans that is why I am posting it ! I love working with this fairing filler but this batch kind of started kicking off just too quickly ! So I rushed to apply the stuff as fast as I could. Ugly job but I knew it would be really easy to sand off.

I repeated the process and apply a second batch. It looked much better. Some of you might actually think I am crazy but I really enjoyed applying the fairing filler and sanding, shaping, sculpting and watch the bulb suddently comes alive.

Than I then joined the halves to make sure I had a symetrical bulb, applied a last batch to fill minor spot ..............

and sanded them both together .

The end result was pleasant so I separated both halfes ........

and laminated them just to give them more strength and a smoother surface .

Finally, I wrapped them in saran wrap and plunged them into the mortar / plaster / ciment I bought....I am not sure what it is cause everything is written in Turkish on the damn package... :). But it mixed good and looks good ! I will let it dry properly before I try removing the plug. I am curious to see what it will looks like.

As far as weight goes the mold is already a monster. The wood box I made was already pretty sturdy and heavy, about 5kgs each. I probably added about 23 kgs of plaster on each box so by now I have 2 28 kgs molds. Add 40 kgs of lead in each and you end up with 70kgs monster bulb molds !

I will definitly build a little trolley just like Kevin did to move his bulb halfes around.

.

Cockpit dry fit

Now THIS is starting to look like a boat ! All that neat work with stringers , cleats and all ,has gone underneath the cockpit sole.

Cutting out the panels was not so hard. Just took a few back and forth for minor trimming. No problem lifting a little weight around at 9:00 am with my garage steaming at about 96 F....

The first and only cardboard template I cutted was one side panel. That is it. And I actually did not use cardboard but "buttery cooking paper" . I like working with the stuff because it is transparent and molds pretty well.

So after I had cutted my cockpit side panels, I cutted the cockpit deck panels. I just placed one side panel on the boat and made sure it was nicely leaning on all frames, than placed a sheet of ply on top of the decks and use a pencil to mark the inner (against the side panel) and outer line (hull). Took the plywood sheet out and cutted along the mark. By the way, I measured panels on one side but made sure they also fitted perfectly the other side before cutting the twins. You never know !

One I had my decks cutted, I used them as templates to draw the cockpit floor curve. Indeed, the curves of the decks and the floor are the same. So I lay a plywood sheet on my working table, placed the deck panel on top and marked the curve for the right side. Flipped it around and marked the left curve. Just make sure you take the right references and place the curve where it is supposed to be.

Worked like a treat and after two liters of sweat I was finished.

By the way, my new measuring unit for boat purposes is not hours, or feet, or pounds.

It is just liters of sweat ! No pictures of that for now !!! :)

Just as an aditional detail to whoever is making a long cockpit version, my floor was made of three panels which can clearly been seen here.

Finished belly

Except for the keel box, the inside of my cockpit is finished. It has been 'almost' finished for quite some time but I finished off this morning. Well actually I still have to trim some fiberglass but that is really minor stuff.

All frames and stringers top have cleats on both sides. Speaking about stringers, I have finally glued the 4 "T" stringers that will give support to the cockpit floor as well as give me additional material to glue the cockpit floor onto.

Looks and feels really strong !